(salt)water on the brain...
I don't know how long I have been riding waves and photographing Santa Cruz. I know after a brief stint in Hawaii (Maui and Oahu) for a couple of years, I returned to the Lane in 1988.
I made another return in March of 2013, after a 2 year hiatus due to an auto accident and fractured back. I did my best not to think of anything related to "Middle Peak" lefts, or sitting at the "Point" before sunrise. I looked at photos occasionally through the files and thought, "this would be a good time to re-work the site and get serious about marketing my view of Santa Cruz" and especially "Westside" surf for the last 30 years or so. It didn't happen. Now I know what happens to the mind when the impossible isn't possible...it just re-invents another way to think of things..as if it doesn't matter or doesn't exist. At times a photograph would allow me the escape into a time that was pure, sacrosanct if you will. The dimension only a surfer knows and is why we don't even try to explain it. Every surfer has a top 2 or 3 (more?) waves in the mind that brings the inner joy of being alive...into the present. Surf matters. Being alive and in the presence... the only surfer I ever saw in the line-up and brought the consistent joy, was Jay Moriarity. I watched the movie (Chasing Mavericks) again a few weeks ago. You watch life or you can do life...enough said. Go surf, 
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a different look...
Some photographs were meant for HDR (high dynamic range) and the enhanced colors of perspective.
I have been having more fun finding surf and travel photographs that "fit the mold" of HDR and bring a sense of wonder and timeless mystery to otherwise ordinary scenes. It doesn't help I'm color blind(greens look orange - reds look brown) and often refer to my wife for approval. Of course your approval comes by way of email and purchase. Enjoy the show! |
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