​One moment... for a lifetime

All it takes is one photograph to put the wheels in motion for a taste of immortality.
As the years pass and the wrinkles gouge deeper, the thought of one moment in time forever frozen... framed on a wall.
The scent of the ocean,
the ache of my shoulder as I turned for one more wave. The perfect drop, the barrel as it walls up and delivers me to a
place only a surfer knows...
​Seconds turn to days and as the years pass, the memories, the photographs. The smile in my mind reliving the days of good friends, good waves and being,

being free 

 Steamer Lane - Slot Wave
​July - 1996

Having spent two years (86-87) on Maui and Oahu prepared me for the wait at Steamer Lane. The late 80's and into the 90's were not without daily episodes of local vs kooks, locals vs valleys, locals vs the world...And it was warranted on many occasions as the total disrespect for the surf (dropping in on others, not recognizing their surfing limits) was compounded by the fact, Steamer Lane is a world class wave and will kick your ass if your not game ready. So being in the water had its moments as a bodyboarder, however my experience was 100% positive as I waited my turn, figured out the tide, swell and break. Taking opportunities as they were given...sometimes stolen, as the swell caught the crew by surprise. And when I had my fill (2-3 hours was normal), I showered, dressed and got the Canon out for another few hours.  As I look back at the 1000's of photos, your going to see what I saw...hopefully you have the same smile. We survived, we lived, we surf.

SC Waves Video
​12/2017

KCET.org

Steamer Lane